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Power Braking at Line

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  #1  
Old 05-27-2006, 06:12 PM
BraggStang's Avatar
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Default Power Braking at Line

Hello fellow dragsters...Have a question for you all. Should I power brake when I get to the line, or should I just keep it in idle and then hit the gas??? I power brake right now.....I rev it up to around 1300 rpm, when the light goes I floor it. Do you think my car would respond better if I just hit the gas?? I was thinking it would make me spin more so that is why I power brake. Any suggestions? thanks,

Bragg
 
  #2  
Old 05-27-2006, 06:32 PM
OrangeStang04's Avatar
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Originally Posted by BraggStang
Hello fellow dragsters...Have a question for you all. Should I power brake when I get to the line, or should I just keep it in idle and then hit the gas??? I power brake right now.....I rev it up to around 1300 rpm, when the light goes I floor it. Do you think my car would respond better if I just hit the gas?? I was thinking it would make me spin more so that is why I power brake. Any suggestions? thanks,

Bragg
If you are an auto... which I guess you are... what you need to to is get on a dyno and figure out where you car begins to make power... Hold down the brake and increase the RPMS to a point slightly lower than that... when the third yellow light (if it's not a pro tree) come on release the brake and put the gas to the floor....
 
  #3  
Old 05-28-2006, 11:09 AM
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There is no need to dyno your car to determine what works best. Just try it both both ways and see what works best.
Generally flashing the convertor rather than brake stalling will be faster if you have sticky tires.
 
  #4  
Old 05-28-2006, 08:51 PM
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Exactly what Dean said. Launch off idle, dont brake stall it.
 
  #5  
Old 05-28-2006, 09:13 PM
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Ive tried it both ways and I saw no advantage of holding the rpms up a bit while holding the brake.
 
  #6  
Old 05-29-2006, 05:55 PM
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1. A Pro Tree is a 4/10ths tree where all three lights flash at once, a Sportsman tree will give you the three bulb drop with 5/10ths between the third bulb and green. R/T is just a number, unless you are bracket/grudge racing where EVERYTHING counts.
2. Given the traction street tires offer, loading up the converter may only help you brake traction off the line. If you run some DRs or real slicks, load it up and hit the tires hard. The 3500 stall in my 67 kills the BFG T/As when I load it up, but the Hoosier 28-10s hook better that way.
3. A bottle, long tubes, and whatever else are a band aid! Get your short time down first, THEN you will be optimizing your potential. You guys would really be amazed if you analyzed how much a change in your short time makes in your ET when your blowin it out the back gate!! :banana:
 
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