Quote:
|
Originally Posted by tripleblack
Common misconception. If you drop 30#, your gain (using the example above) would be:
3051.8 / 2970 = 1.03 g
Whereas the 10hp gain would be:
3128 / 3000 = 1.04 g (slightly more advantage from 10 hp vs 30# wt. reduction)
Since you get both with the hypothetical change, the numbers would be:
3128.1 / 2970 = 1.05 g
Given a choice between shaving 30# or adding 10 hp, add the 10 hp. You're better off, particularly since more hp will help to overcome the increased aero load generated by more acceleration, etc.
As for the C&L intakes, they are definitely heavy suckers. Based on shipping weights, they look to weigh 9 pounds more than the plastic oe. C&L claims they add 7hp to an 02-03 GT.
Using our example mule, the numbers would be:
3128.1 / 3000 = 1.04 before the C&L
3181.5 / 3009 = 1.06 after the C&L - a clear but not earthshaking gain.
for the 7hp gain from the C&L to be negated to parity, it would have to weigh about 50 pounds more than the oe plastic intake.
However, if the question is whether the 7hp gain (and 9 # weight disadvantage) is worth the $100 it would cost - probably not a good modification for most people. Cost to benefit ratio is rather low. Just good common sense.
tripleblack
|
Sorry but I don't have the education that you do, but I do have the real world experience from actual testing. None of those numbers are always true. Like I said, overanalyzing is confusing to many. I know what works and what doesn't, and decreasing your weight will benefit your ET's much more than an increase in power. Both are ideal. The "aero" affects you speak of are not going to make or break anyone at the 12-13sec levels of racing. Not to mention, the lighter weight/rotating assembly will be much easier on parts. Thats learned, and not from a book.

More power with more weight breaks parts....period.
Adam