Hold on a second! (loud breaking noise)
First of all, based on your symptons, there is no way that you can say that the MAF is causing those problems. Did someone tell you that? Have the MAF been tested and failed. If you buy a new one (stock or not) I think you are throwing money away.
Likely culprits for this situation could be a bad coil pack and/or problems with IAC, TB, or TPS. I would start there first and I can go in to more detail for you if needed.
It is really rare that a MAF would just go bad, unless you damaged it physically and you are not telling us that part.
As far as the C&L 80 mm MAF, for those that do not know, this is a kit that C&L sells that utilizes the stock MAF electronics. The device is designed to trick you MAF signal and makes the car run lean. This is where the added hp comes from. In my strong opinion, this is a bad device and you should pull it from the car and put the stock housing back in. There have been a lot of reported problems with these and they are not safe to use unless the car has been dyno-tuned specifically for it.
It is possible...very possible, that the C&L unit is causing your problems, w/o there being an electronics issue. Before you do anything else, put the stock housing back in and then we can properly test the IAC, TB, and TPS.
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Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump
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