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Old 03-01-2007, 11:30 AM   #1
Mirage775
Default Removing the charcoal canister?

What all is envolve in removing the charcoal canister on a 93 GT? To make this clear, if you're looking at the engine, on the left side of the engine compartment, there's a little black box, is that it? The guy at my local perfomance shop said to remove it, it does nothing?? I already removed the smog pump crap too.
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1993 Mustang GT
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Old 03-01-2007, 12:51 PM   #2
ClemsonStang
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2 bolts and a line to cut.
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Old 03-01-2007, 01:39 PM   #3
Mirage775
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There's a bunch of either vacuum hoses or some kind of hose that run to it. Do they all tie into the same junction somewhere?
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Old 03-01-2007, 06:52 PM   #4
Mirage775
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This is what I'm talkin about. The square box thingy has one bolt that holds it to the frame. It has 2 vacuum lines coming from it, one goes along the passengers fender and up inside the fender. The other line looked like it went into one sensor, then went toward the top of the engine and under the plenum. Do I disconnect this sensor or just cap it off too? I accenditally broke off part of the t-fitting on the sensor. What is this senosr for anyway and what's it called, in case I have to buy a new one? Thanks

Sorry for the pics being so small.
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File Type: jpg Picture 001.jpg (358.1 KB, 29 views)
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:17 PM   #5
cobra331
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The hose running along the pass. side goes to the fuel tank, gas vapors go from the tank to the canister and the charcol holds the vapors and at certain times the ecu opens the valve (the thing you call a sensor) sending the vapors to the engine to burn it, saving you some fuel (not much, not even noticable). This system is to vent the tank of pressure and it burns it for emmisions, insted of releasing it to the atmosphere. If you disconnect it plug off the line to the engine so you dont create a vac. leak. I wouldnt plug off the tank end but you need something to keep dirt out and still hold up to fuel vapors and fuel as a liquid incase of any trapped vapors that cool down (cool fuel = liquid, hot fuel = vapor), the reason they use charcol. You can leave the box and the line from the tank plugged into the box and unplug the valve or engine side and plug that but then you might as well leave it, good luck !
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331 stroker (D.S.S. kit) 532 lift cam w/ 1.7 rockers, GT 40 heads 194/160 valves, shaved, ports raised, reangled & opened ALOT!!!!, EFI spyder 2 intake (ports opened here too), 75 mm throttle body, 24 lbs injectors, 255 lph pump, adjustable reg., all MSD ign., egual length headers, off road H pipe, flowmasters, 3:73 gears, and a whole lot more. spent a year and alot of money to get every oil clearance, cc's, and ratio in every cyl. exactly correct.
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Old 03-02-2007, 04:08 AM   #6
Mirage775
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Hmm, I still don't totally understand all this, I guess I should've left it alone, until you or someone else answered? OK, so you're saying that the thing I call a sensor is the EGR valve, because I thought the EGR valve looked totally different and wasn't mounted to a hose? OK, so lemme get this straight, if I remove my "sensor" piece, do I cap off that hose? Also, what about the wire plug connected to the "sensor/valve" thingy? If I read your post correctly, I can't plug all this back into the box, because this is the thing I broke the t-fitting off of... Or can you or someone else take my pics, re-circle what exactly I need to do and repost them possibly? Thanks
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Old 03-02-2007, 04:39 AM   #7
Mirage775
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Here's what I was calling a "sensor".
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Old 03-02-2007, 05:47 AM   #8
cobra331
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No its not the EGR, EGR is mounted on the back of the intake by the throttle body. What your talking bout is a purge valve. If you broke it, unplug the hose that is still connected the the valve and plug it off, now unplug the hose from the valve to the box (the broke side) and put a cap on the top of the box where the hose was. leave the other hose goin to the tank plugged in, now your done.
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331 stroker (D.S.S. kit) 532 lift cam w/ 1.7 rockers, GT 40 heads 194/160 valves, shaved, ports raised, reangled & opened ALOT!!!!, EFI spyder 2 intake (ports opened here too), 75 mm throttle body, 24 lbs injectors, 255 lph pump, adjustable reg., all MSD ign., egual length headers, off road H pipe, flowmasters, 3:73 gears, and a whole lot more. spent a year and alot of money to get every oil clearance, cc's, and ratio in every cyl. exactly correct.
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Old 03-02-2007, 05:50 PM   #9
Mirage775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra331 View Post
unplug the hose that is still connected the the valve and plug it off, now unplug the hose from the valve to the box (the broke side) and put a cap on the top of the box where the hose was. leave the other hose goin to the tank plugged in, now your done.
OK, you've confused my wife and me too, this time around. OK, when I plug off the hose to this purge valve, do I still leave the valve dangling, with the 2 wire connector still plugged into it or do I just unplug the connector and do nothing? Now, I thought I was gonna remove the canister completely? You're saying to leave it on the frame rail and cap off where the hose, from the purge valve was at? But, I want to remove the canister completely from the car? A friend at work told me that the other vac. line went to the a/c unit, in the car? He said just find a vac. line to tie this line in to?
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Old 03-02-2007, 06:12 PM   #10
cobra331
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This is actually easy, now stand in front of the car and look down at the box, in the front are two hoses, leave the hose close to the fender alone (it goes to the tank) the hose close to the engine goes to the valve, by looking at your pics you've already unplugged it from the box now put a cap on the plastic thing sticking up from the box (where the hose used to be). OK now unplug the wire connector from the valve and pull the hose off the valve from either the valve or fallow it to the intake and plug it off also. Your tank needs to be vented and filtered, if you leave the box it will be filtered and vented. if you remove the box then you need something to filter and vent the tank, so just leave the box there and plugged to the tank. and throw the broken valve away. The best thing to do is buy a new valve and fix it correctly, but whoever told you the hose from the box goes to the a/c is wrong, that doesn't make since at all, wtf !!!
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331 stroker (D.S.S. kit) 532 lift cam w/ 1.7 rockers, GT 40 heads 194/160 valves, shaved, ports raised, reangled & opened ALOT!!!!, EFI spyder 2 intake (ports opened here too), 75 mm throttle body, 24 lbs injectors, 255 lph pump, adjustable reg., all MSD ign., egual length headers, off road H pipe, flowmasters, 3:73 gears, and a whole lot more. spent a year and alot of money to get every oil clearance, cc's, and ratio in every cyl. exactly correct.
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Old 03-02-2007, 06:46 PM   #11
Mirage775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra331 View Post
The best thing to do is buy a new valve and fix it correctly, but whoever told you the hose from the box goes to the a/c is wrong, that doesn't make since at all, wtf !!!
OK, one more question? If my topic was to remove this whole setup, why would it be best to buy a new valve and replace it? Just curious?
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Old 03-02-2007, 09:14 PM   #12
cobra331
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Buy a new one and fix it cause it burns the vented gasses (fuel you lose from evaporation). fuel evaporates from the tank (you need this vent to prevent excess pressure in the tank) to the charcoal box and the charcoal absorbs the fuel, holding it until the valve opens and sends the fuel to the intake to be burnt. This can save you fuel by burning it instead of letting it escape to the atmosphere, hooked up or not you wont know the difference.
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331 stroker (D.S.S. kit) 532 lift cam w/ 1.7 rockers, GT 40 heads 194/160 valves, shaved, ports raised, reangled & opened ALOT!!!!, EFI spyder 2 intake (ports opened here too), 75 mm throttle body, 24 lbs injectors, 255 lph pump, adjustable reg., all MSD ign., egual length headers, off road H pipe, flowmasters, 3:73 gears, and a whole lot more. spent a year and alot of money to get every oil clearance, cc's, and ratio in every cyl. exactly correct.
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Old 03-03-2007, 05:44 AM   #13
Mirage775
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OK, everyone in town said I needed to remove it. If that was the case, I would've just left it alone. Do you know exactly what the part is called and where to get one at? Thanks, you've been a big help with this nonsense
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Old 03-03-2007, 06:21 AM   #14
cobra331
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Its a canister purge solenoid, from napa auto parts ... its like $30 - $40
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331 stroker (D.S.S. kit) 532 lift cam w/ 1.7 rockers, GT 40 heads 194/160 valves, shaved, ports raised, reangled & opened ALOT!!!!, EFI spyder 2 intake (ports opened here too), 75 mm throttle body, 24 lbs injectors, 255 lph pump, adjustable reg., all MSD ign., egual length headers, off road H pipe, flowmasters, 3:73 gears, and a whole lot more. spent a year and alot of money to get every oil clearance, cc's, and ratio in every cyl. exactly correct.
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Old 03-03-2007, 08:06 AM   #15
Mirage775
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Thanks, couldn't find it an Advance Auto last night.
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Old 03-03-2007, 08:06 AM
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