I want to get my mustang to get 1.5 60fts consistently on the CHEAP...no coil overs yet...gotta wait on some money to come my way first.

I been looking through CL constantly waiting for some stock fox body front springs to pop up. Those will help keep my stang lowered and should be better at launching over a progressive spring. I currently run eibach pro-kit springs.

So for the front all I can do is add the fox body springs and remove the sway bar...I dont have extra money for strange or lakewood struts. Ideally I would want to run coilover with 150 LB 14" spring.

The rear I need to find bullitt/mach rear springs or I can just put stock ones in and cut a coil. I havent looked up shocks but I think I can get by with 50/50 strange or lake wood.

My rear tire and rim are going to be 15X8 pro star and wrapped with a 275/50 M/T ET Street radial.


If you guys have any suggestions or better ideas let me know. I am open for anything.

 

you're going to need RLCA's and subframes if you don't have them. I'd do the usual pulling of the front sway bar as well before racing. Tq box reinforcement is a great idea below 1.8sec. After that, skinnies and slicks and a good heat up on the slicks. Should be able to jerk the front tires clean off the ground with your blower in play.

if you're on an auto then you can do the usual auto trans tricks for harder launches.

 

First and foremost, you need to upgrade the suspension, period. Fox 4-banger springs up front is a good choice, but out back you need to upgrade the arms. If this will mainly be a drag car only, try Lakewood's Traction Action Arms. Also, any good RCLA is a good start. I'd also get a set of Edelbrock or Currie upper arms so that you can adjust pinion angle and eliminate the flexible upper arms.

I also second r3d's recommendation for chassis stiffening. Problem is there is not such thing as cheap 1.5's.

 

Currently I run Maximum Motorsport RLCA...poly and spherical bushing. I also have steeda upper control arms and they are adjustable. I have my pinion angle at -3 degrees right now. I have full lenght sub frames but need to have them welded in...no one wants the job or money. I just need to make more phone calls.

My auto is built but I still run the AODE valve body. It has been worked by performance automatic and it shifts hard...my car kicked sideways on the 2-3 shift at the track on saturday. I have a lentech converter that is stalled to 3500...

I would like to use my stall to launch but the fucing nittos dont stick on a 1500 launch even if I ease it to it. I can feel my suspension unload because my rear is dipping pretty hard.

The best 60ft to date is a 1.71 on Nitto DR's 315/35...Im sure I can do better with a M/T 275/50 drag radial.

 

is there a reason you are using the drag radial.....?

a real slick, will work better and hide some of the problems with the stock set-up.

 

Hate to get off topic but what usual tricks might these be?

 

The rules for the class im going to run in requires a DOT tire...I talked to people and got opinions on ET Streets and ET Street radials and the majority liked the street radial better. The sidewall was a little more stiff especially since Im going to run a 10" tire on a 8 inch rim.

I'm not just racing for fun anymore...its time to start competeing as the mustang is not a daily driver anymore.

 

R3d is referring to the J-Mod.

 

Ah, ty. ^^

 

oh, I almost forgot. Flashing the converter on launches helps out big time especially if the car will hook. To flash the converter all you do is mash the peddle on the 3rd amber light and hold on