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Blue02GT · 05-29-2005, 08:07 AM

Yes I just hold the brakes down but mines an automatic so it's easier than a five speed. If you are worried about burnouts look into getting a line lock, it will hold your brakes without you having your foot on the brake pedal. 28 psi no wonder you were spinning, lol. Start at 18 psi and see how that works for you. Also be sure to check your tire pressure after you run, mine will go up 1 pound on each of the first three or four races then level off. I usally jump out and check it a couple of cars before I run to make sure. Nitto's work but take alot of practice, you have to find the right combination of heat and tire pressure.

Here are some tricks that will help you at the track.
Take out your spare tire, jack and tire iron for less weight
try to time your fill ups so you are running with 1/8 - 1/4 tank of gas. Gas is 9 lbs. per gallon so a full tank can add 90 - 115 pounds of extra weight.
Remove the front sway bar before going to the track, this takes about 25 lbs off the front end and allows the front suspension to raise up quickly transfering weight to the rear tires for better traction. The sway bar only has 4 bolts and comes off quite easily. Don't worry your car will handle fine without it, mine has been off for almost two years and I drive it every day to work.
Pull the passenger side headlight to allow more air into the engine, this requires a slotted screw driver and a pair of pliers. Takes about 1 minute. There are two metal shafts that hold it in place which just need to be lifted up, I put some white lithium grease on them to make it easy to reinstall.
You can also pull the rear seat out easily at home and knock off another 50 lbs. This requires a meteric socket set and takes about 10 minutes.
Pull your rear wing off, it creates drag. I pulled mine off permanately and plugged the holes with plastic plugs from Lowe's. Cost about $5.00.
I aslo cut my stock air box to open it up to allow better air flow.
Most of these mod's cost little or nothing and they do add up. I have managed to get my stock motor slush box to run consistant 13.0's @ 104 plus using these free or cheap mod's. The biggest mod is the driver mod, get lot's of practice in and take detailed notes of each run. This will help you compare runs and see what works best for you. I created a spread sheet in Excel on my laptop to track my races and it helped me a great deal in setting up my car.

05-29-2005, 08:07 AM	#11 (permalink)
Blue02GT Ex Mini Smack King Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: St. Louis Posts: 868	Yes I just hold the brakes down but mines an automatic so it's easier than a five speed. If you are worried about burnouts look into getting a line lock, it will hold your brakes without you having your foot on the brake pedal. 28 psi no wonder you were spinning, lol. Start at 18 psi and see how that works for you. Also be sure to check your tire pressure after you run, mine will go up 1 pound on each of the first three or four races then level off. I usally jump out and check it a couple of cars before I run to make sure. Nitto's work but take alot of practice, you have to find the right combination of heat and tire pressure. Here are some tricks that will help you at the track. Take out your spare tire, jack and tire iron for less weight try to time your fill ups so you are running with 1/8 - 1/4 tank of gas. Gas is 9 lbs. per gallon so a full tank can add 90 - 115 pounds of extra weight. Remove the front sway bar before going to the track, this takes about 25 lbs off the front end and allows the front suspension to raise up quickly transfering weight to the rear tires for better traction. The sway bar only has 4 bolts and comes off quite easily. Don't worry your car will handle fine without it, mine has been off for almost two years and I drive it every day to work. Pull the passenger side headlight to allow more air into the engine, this requires a slotted screw driver and a pair of pliers. Takes about 1 minute. There are two metal shafts that hold it in place which just need to be lifted up, I put some white lithium grease on them to make it easy to reinstall. You can also pull the rear seat out easily at home and knock off another 50 lbs. This requires a meteric socket set and takes about 10 minutes. Pull your rear wing off, it creates drag. I pulled mine off permanately and plugged the holes with plastic plugs from Lowe's. Cost about $5.00. I aslo cut my stock air box to open it up to allow better air flow. Most of these mod's cost little or nothing and they do add up. I have managed to get my stock motor slush box to run consistant 13.0's @ 104 plus using these free or cheap mod's. The biggest mod is the driver mod, get lot's of practice in and take detailed notes of each run. This will help you compare runs and see what works best for you. I created a spread sheet in Excel on my laptop to track my races and it helped me a great deal in setting up my car. __________________ True Blue 2002 GT Premium 4r70W 1/8 8.205@ 84.780 1/4 12.874@ 107.20 Bolt on's n/a NMRA #7703 Dyno'd at Modular Depot 251 hp. 291 Tq. 4.30's, 3500 Stall converter, Steeda upper & Lowers, Tokico drag struts, M & M frame connectors, P & A valve body, C&L plenum, Accufab 75mm TB, Jet Hot Long tubes, Hooker O/R X, Steeda catback,SCT tune,Steeda pullies.