Dry or Wet Nitrous Systems?
#1
11-27-2006, 03:34 PM
Dry or Wet Nitrous Systems?
Which is better Dry or Wet Nitrous Systems and what are the differences between the two?Thanks.
#2
11-27-2006, 05:02 PM
ill be nice since this is your first post. Just FYI this topic has been posted about a million times and if you use the search feature you can find ALOT of info on it.
Dry systems are pretty much outdated now. Theres no need for them if you have a window switch. Wet kits make more power and are safer since your not relying on the injectors to pulse more fuel. Go with a wet NX or NOS kit...
Dry systems are pretty much outdated now. Theres no need for them if you have a window switch. Wet kits make more power and are safer since your not relying on the injectors to pulse more fuel. Go with a wet NX or NOS kit...
#3
11-27-2006, 06:02 PM
I agree with jeredan2003. Youll see a lot more people running wet kits then dry kits.
And what do you know, all my nitrous stuff is for sale. https://mustangboards.com/mustang-cl...y-nitrous.html
And what do you know, all my nitrous stuff is for sale. https://mustangboards.com/mustang-cl...y-nitrous.html
#6
11-27-2006, 11:59 PM
Wet kits spray nitrus and fuel together. Dry kits spray nitrous separately and rely on injectors to add additional fuel.
There are some seriously fast cars running dry nitrous, but for the most part, you will find cars with larger hits of nitrous running wet.
Wet kits do not make more power. Holy hell, how many times do I need to say this. Nitrous is nitrous. It is the combination of nitrous and fuel that makes power. There is nothing magical about wet kits that result in making more power.
If you take the same amount of nitrous and fuel and add it to a motor with a wet kit or a dry kit with identical air/fuel ratio, you will make the same amount of power. Wet kits don't create energy.
Wet kits are generally more expensive to get all the safety features that you need, then dry kits. Wet kits have more moving parts and thus more things to brake (not that they do). Wet kits are also probably easier to tune.
The problem with dry kits is the risk of running lean. Since you are relying on fuel injectors to add more fuel (via a computer controller) BUT there is no feedback loop. So, if one cyclinder should go lean, party is over. All it takes is one clogged injector and motor is done.
No system is fool-proof. If I were to use nitrous again, I would go wet. But, by the time you have everything you need, bought a tuner, and have the car dyno tuned, you are pretty dam close to buying a nice blower setup.
There are some seriously fast cars running dry nitrous, but for the most part, you will find cars with larger hits of nitrous running wet.
Wet kits do not make more power. Holy hell, how many times do I need to say this. Nitrous is nitrous. It is the combination of nitrous and fuel that makes power. There is nothing magical about wet kits that result in making more power.
If you take the same amount of nitrous and fuel and add it to a motor with a wet kit or a dry kit with identical air/fuel ratio, you will make the same amount of power. Wet kits don't create energy.
Wet kits are generally more expensive to get all the safety features that you need, then dry kits. Wet kits have more moving parts and thus more things to brake (not that they do). Wet kits are also probably easier to tune.
The problem with dry kits is the risk of running lean. Since you are relying on fuel injectors to add more fuel (via a computer controller) BUT there is no feedback loop. So, if one cyclinder should go lean, party is over. All it takes is one clogged injector and motor is done.
No system is fool-proof. If I were to use nitrous again, I would go wet. But, by the time you have everything you need, bought a tuner, and have the car dyno tuned, you are pretty dam close to buying a nice blower setup.
#7
11-28-2006, 03:26 AM
Wet kits spray nitrus and fuel together. Dry kits spray nitrous separately and rely on injectors to add additional fuel.
There are some seriously fast cars running dry nitrous, but for the most part, you will find cars with larger hits of nitrous running wet.
Wet kits do not make more power. Holy hell, how many times do I need to say this. Nitrous is nitrous. It is the combination of nitrous and fuel that makes power. There is nothing magical about wet kits that result in making more power.
If you take the same amount of nitrous and fuel and add it to a motor with a wet kit or a dry kit with identical air/fuel ratio, you will make the same amount of power. Wet kits don't create energy.
Wet kits are generally more expensive to get all the safety features that you need, then dry kits. Wet kits have more moving parts and thus more things to brake (not that they do). Wet kits are also probably easier to tune.
The problem with dry kits is the risk of running lean. Since you are relying on fuel injectors to add more fuel (via a computer controller) BUT there is no feedback loop. So, if one cyclinder should go lean, party is over. All it takes is one clogged injector and motor is done.
No system is fool-proof. If I were to use nitrous again, I would go wet. But, by the time you have everything you need, bought a tuner, and have the car dyno tuned, you are pretty dam close to buying a nice blower setup.
There are some seriously fast cars running dry nitrous, but for the most part, you will find cars with larger hits of nitrous running wet.
Wet kits do not make more power. Holy hell, how many times do I need to say this. Nitrous is nitrous. It is the combination of nitrous and fuel that makes power. There is nothing magical about wet kits that result in making more power.
If you take the same amount of nitrous and fuel and add it to a motor with a wet kit or a dry kit with identical air/fuel ratio, you will make the same amount of power. Wet kits don't create energy.
Wet kits are generally more expensive to get all the safety features that you need, then dry kits. Wet kits have more moving parts and thus more things to brake (not that they do). Wet kits are also probably easier to tune.
The problem with dry kits is the risk of running lean. Since you are relying on fuel injectors to add more fuel (via a computer controller) BUT there is no feedback loop. So, if one cyclinder should go lean, party is over. All it takes is one clogged injector and motor is done.
No system is fool-proof. If I were to use nitrous again, I would go wet. But, by the time you have everything you need, bought a tuner, and have the car dyno tuned, you are pretty dam close to buying a nice blower setup.
#8
11-28-2006, 09:48 AM
I have historically seen more power on the dyno with wet kits but I've only ever seen wet kits used with 100hp+ shots so I can't say it's a universal truth.
I'm a fan of the "passing" shot... a nice dry 50-80hp shot with the extra fuel added by the injectors. It's a simple system that even goobers can install with little hassle. It's not a drag racing setup.. it's a freeway playtime setup. I wouldn't ever do a 100+ shot dry. With big shots use the wet kit. With smaller shots stay dry.
Wet kits do keep the initial lean spike down to a reasonable level a little more efficiently than dry kits but on the same shot with the same AF, and same tune efficiency, you'll get the same power. It's a lot easier to get way too rich with a wet kit and that can be just as bad as too lean.
I'm a fan of the "passing" shot... a nice dry 50-80hp shot with the extra fuel added by the injectors. It's a simple system that even goobers can install with little hassle. It's not a drag racing setup.. it's a freeway playtime setup. I wouldn't ever do a 100+ shot dry. With big shots use the wet kit. With smaller shots stay dry.
Wet kits do keep the initial lean spike down to a reasonable level a little more efficiently than dry kits but on the same shot with the same AF, and same tune efficiency, you'll get the same power. It's a lot easier to get way too rich with a wet kit and that can be just as bad as too lean.
#9
11-28-2006, 04:20 PM
Wet kits do not create hp! The hp comes from the combination of fuel and nitrous. If you take a dry kit and a wet kit and add the exact same amount of nitrous and fuel with the same a/f to each car, you will make the same amount of power. You can't change chemistry. If you believe otherwise, then I have property on the moon to sell you.
#10
11-28-2006, 04:23 PM
I'm a fan of the "passing" shot... a nice dry 50-80hp shot with the extra fuel added by the injectors. It's a simple system that even goobers can install with little hassle. It's not a drag racing setup.. it's a freeway playtime setup. I wouldn't ever do a 100+ shot dry. With big shots use the wet kit. With smaller shots stay dry.
Or, you can spend a lot more money for a wet setup and run 125 rwhp or with the same setup make 300 more rwhp (so long as your motor can stand it). Wet is much better for high-hp applications.
I've got a NOS on my GT and I have no clue if it's wet or dry. Some people are telling me it's try, some are telling me it's wet 
#12
11-28-2006, 08:07 PM
Seriously, no one should be spraying their car unless they have a complete understanding of nitrous...the fact that you don't know what kind of system you have kind of has me concerned. Then again, perhaps your ignorance (I mean that in a nice way) will prevent you from messing with things - LOL
Anyway, if your nitrous line is spraying directly into your intake, then this is most likely a dry system. Unless the line was purposely hidden, this should be obvious to you.
Take a picture of your engine bay.
#15
11-28-2006, 08:22 PM
Dude listen....those dyno sdo not prove anything! They are just dynos from cars with nitrous BUT you have no way to know how much juice or fuel is actually added. I am not talking about what a nozzle is tated at....that does not mean crap.
Wet kits do not create hp! The hp comes from the combination of fuel and nitrous. If you take a dry kit and a wet kit and add the exact same amount of nitrous and fuel with the same a/f to each car, you will make the same amount of power. You can't change chemistry. If you believe otherwise, then I have property on the moon to sell you.
Wet kits do not create hp! The hp comes from the combination of fuel and nitrous. If you take a dry kit and a wet kit and add the exact same amount of nitrous and fuel with the same a/f to each car, you will make the same amount of power. You can't change chemistry. If you believe otherwise, then I have property on the moon to sell you.
#16
11-28-2006, 09:02 PM
#18
11-28-2006, 11:25 PM
http://img96.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02683xp6.jpg
http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02681pz3.jpg
#19
11-29-2006, 12:19 AM
No I have never used it. Everything looks hooked up right.ExceptI found a piece of wire in front of my clutch pedal. It has mini fuse on it. I am thinking that is off of the toggle switch.
http://img96.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02683xp6.jpg
http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02681pz3.jpg
http://img96.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02683xp6.jpg
http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc02681pz3.jpg
IThat to me looks like a Zex wet kit system to me. Cant miss the purple stuff..lol..looks cleanly set up to. I'd just make sure the jets are the correct ones if I were you. You sure thats a piece of wire? That most likely is the WOT switch so when you floor it the nitrous activates. Cool fill the bottle up and have some fun after checking it a bit more in depth.
Find out what shot it is and check to see if the solonoids works.
#20
11-29-2006, 12:23 AM
IThat to me looks like a Zex wet kit system to me. Cant miss the purple stuff..lol..looks cleanly set up to. I'd just make sure the jets are the correct ones if I were you. You sure thats a piece of wire? That most likely is the WOT switch so when you floor it the nitrous activates. Cool fill the bottle up and have some fun after checking it a bit more in depth. Find out what shot it is and check to see if the solonoids works.
Find out what shot it is and check to see if the solonoids works.
My instructions say that it is a wet kit
Previous owner gave me the jets ..And I am sure that it is a piece of wire, cut on each end I think it has something to do with the switch. It fell on the floor 3-4weeks after I bought the car
#23
11-29-2006, 03:15 PM
If you want to play it safe, have it checked-out by a tuner shop. There should be one in your area as you are new a major track.
When you do start to spray, NEVER advance the timing. Also, if you ever hear pinging, lift off the gas and don't spray until you know why there is a problem.
When you do start to spray, NEVER advance the timing. Also, if you ever hear pinging, lift off the gas and don't spray until you know why there is a problem.
#24
11-29-2006, 03:28 PM
If you want to play it safe, have it checked-out by a tuner shop. There should be one in your area as you are new a major track.
When you do start to spray, NEVER advance the timing. Also, if you ever hear pinging, lift off the gas and don't spray until you know why there is a problem.
When you do start to spray, NEVER advance the timing. Also, if you ever hear pinging, lift off the gas and don't spray until you know why there is a problem.
#25
11-29-2006, 04:23 PM
you'll want to find someone local to you that KNOWS what they're looking at to go over your system and check it out for you. Zex is a good kit so once it's hooked up right you'll be doing ok. You should still get on a dyno and have the af ratio checked with the gas on before you hit it on the street.
I'm figuring you're probably a girl (given your screen name), which means any of the guys on this site would probably be more than happy to scope your backside while checking the nitrous system out. If you're not a girl... DAMN DUDE!
I'm figuring you're probably a girl (given your screen name), which means any of the guys on this site would probably be more than happy to scope your backside while checking the nitrous system out. If you're not a girl... DAMN DUDE!
#26
11-29-2006, 05:22 PM
you'll want to find someone local to you that KNOWS what they're looking at to go over your system and check it out for you. Zex is a good kit so once it's hooked up right you'll be doing ok. You should still get on a dyno and have the af ratio checked with the gas on before you hit it on the street.
I'm figuring you're probably a girl (given your screen name), which means any of the guys on this site would probably be more than happy to scope your backside while checking the nitrous system out. If you're not a girl... DAMN DUDE!
I'm figuring you're probably a girl (given your screen name), which means any of the guys on this site would probably be more than happy to scope your backside while checking the nitrous system out. If you're not a girl... DAMN DUDE!
#27
11-30-2006, 09:29 AM
Wet kits do not create hp! The hp comes from the combination of fuel and nitrous. If you take a dry kit and a wet kit and add the exact same amount of nitrous and fuel with the same a/f to each car, you will make the same amount of power. You can't change chemistry. If you believe otherwise, then I have property on the moon to sell you.
#28
11-30-2006, 08:40 PM
Dah!!! But that is not what I meant. Of course nitrous setups make hp from nitrous and fuel, but what I meant is that there is not special synergy with a wet kit that miraculously creates even more hp. They make hp....they don't create hp.
