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r3dn3ck · 03-20-2006, 05:32 PM

Don't weld on Strut Tower Braces. Doesn't really help. Don't even need one with a MM k-member and k-member brace.

You'll feel the most diff from the subs. The front STB is a meh... solution. I can feel it but I can drive that hard thanks to a properly built coil-over. With conventional springs... don't expect much. I can say that in a head on collision my Steeda STB on my 01' lessened some pretty serious front end collapse that would have been really bad if it didn't stop. The force bent my STB a lot but kept the strut towers where they were so I could open my door when I got out.

The rear STB is best for Coil-over cars. It doesn't do a damn thing for stock type spring cars since the spring loads are placed elsewhere. I put one on when I had an IRS in the car, and it helped a bit with keeping the rear wheels settled. Other than taht... don't bother.

03-20-2006, 05:32 PM	#11 (permalink)
r3dn3ck Wowbagger hates me too! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Magrathea/California Posts: 7,149	Don't weld on Strut Tower Braces. Doesn't really help. Don't even need one with a MM k-member and k-member brace. You'll feel the most diff from the subs. The front STB is a meh... solution. I can feel it but I can drive that hard thanks to a properly built coil-over. With conventional springs... don't expect much. I can say that in a head on collision my Steeda STB on my 01' lessened some pretty serious front end collapse that would have been really bad if it didn't stop. The force bent my STB a lot but kept the strut towers where they were so I could open my door when I got out. The rear STB is best for Coil-over cars. It doesn't do a damn thing for stock type spring cars since the spring loads are placed elsewhere. I put one on when I had an IRS in the car, and it helped a bit with keeping the rear wheels settled. Other than taht... don't bother.